In a hurry to squeeze in one last tasting before D-day for my luscious baby belly, I followed Gaelle on a curious trail. Harry's Diner on the southern side had recently changed up their menu and with a bold sign across their exterior with large bold black letters, stated the following: Home Made Fresh Mozzarella Made Here. I thought it was either pure daringness on Gaelle's part to venture to Harry's Diner for fresh handmade mozzarella or perhaps she just didn't know what local diner fare was and how unconventionally scary it was to envision an organic cheese making factory set up in the same line kitchen that cooked corned beef and hash. But we went anyway because this was a serious piece of advertisement that required serious attention.
As always, the service was pretty great. Our waitress was super friendly and knowledgable and the atmosphere is as it always has been. A very 50's diner theme. The menu however has changed significantly since I last visited several years ago. At least 2 years ago, there was a large italian inspired pasta fare. This time, all the italian dishes had vanished and replaced with simple American lunch and dinner specials typical to the local area. Speaking with the waitress, the owner whom at his heart is an epicurian, uses his base station (the diner) as a place to also experiment and play with his own evolving culinary self expression. At the moment, he is in a cheesemaking mood and is trying to justify his passion with any item on the menu where fresh mozzarella can find a home. Even on a Sheboygan bun on top of a grilled bratwurst. There is talk about adding pizza to the menu. Interestingly, and possibly for legal reasons, or perhaps a matter of sufficient hours in the day, they do not sell fresh mozzarella to the public. You can't even order a plate of fresh mozzarella alone as an appetizer. It only comes incorporated in a prepared dish. But the waitress was gracious enough to let us try a small plate sampler and guarantee that we would be as impressed by it as she has been. For lunch, we decide to go exotic by going native...we order a plate of German potato pancake (which received positive reviews by the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel), a simple Nutella crepe, the cheese sampler plate, and each a cup of coffee.
Our ultimate assessment of the cheese? Pretty sublime. A pure soft milky white silky and moist to the touch. The taste is pure and simple. Sweet simple flavor of light creamy milk and the clean taste of the quality water that created it. My only question to the owner is whether he used local tap water in making the cheese or filtered water? There was something about the afternote that almost hinted at chlorine like the tap water at home. However, maybe I'm just hyper sensitive to the flavor of chlorine since I've been drinking too much tap water lately and my pregnant taste buds were hallucinating. Or maybe i just don't know what I'm talking about as far as fresh made mozzarella is concerned. In any case, I give it a n 8.5 out of 10 and I would head back and order a bowl of it to take home if I could. It was very impressive. If only he made buffalo mozzarella, I'd camp out in front of the restaurant for that any day.
A second surprising discovery we both made there unexpectedly was their nutella crepe. Now, we're not talking about the best crepe in the world, or even a standard good quality crepe you'd find in France. But, admittedly, it was a very decent to good crepe that truly hit the spot both visually and taste wise for the both of us. So decent that it would even justify Gaelle bringing her family out to Harry's Diner for a french inspired treat. And now that I'm thinking about it, am craving it again too and will be taking my entire family out for a plate of it tomorrow morning.
The German potato pancake wasn't what I had envisioned, although I really have nothing to compare it to except the smell and visual of my coworker's homemade crunchy fried potato pancakes that she use to bring to the office and make me salivate over. If I had to criticize it with no prior knowledge of what a good potato pancake should be like, I'd say that this pancake could have done with less flour, more shredded potato, be less cake like and more greasy-cruncy-savory-potatoey, could have had more green onions in it and a little more salt to season. The waitress had asked whether I wanted it with a side of sour cream or apple sauce. I asked for both and they came in little dip sized ramekins. I didn't understand the ramekin of applesauce. Was it only for dipping? I wish I had a German friend there to explain to me the proper way of eating a potato pancake. Gaelle and I agreed that it was missing something in the dipping sauce to bring out its potential. I ended up dipping mine in both the apple sauce and sour cream, which worked. Even though the Milwaukee Journal dubbed it the best potato pancake ever between here and Milwaukee, I sadly won't reorder it.
I wish the owner the best success with his culinary ventures because thus far, it's made Harry's Diner an interesting place on the map to check into once in a while for new inspiration.
Sunday, October 9, 2011
Friday, July 8, 2011
Good Day Sunshine!
It has become a sign of spring as with the budding of leaves and chirping of birds when Sparky's Hotdog Stand reopens for business. It seems each year, Sparky celebrates its presence and the coming of the season with something a little more summery festive. A couple of years ago, there was the addition of decorative garden chairs and tables. This year, we have fun carribean steel drum music raining over us like radiant smiles of sunbeams tickling us from heaven. It certainly makes for an other worldly atmosphere when you head for a hot dog in downtown Sheboygan for lunch.
Gaelle and I had been in an unusual anticipatory mood since the weather hit 70 by end of June. We just wanted to be out, somewhere with a deck or patio, somewhere with a lot of sun, and somewhere very American-summery. It was time to introduce Gaelle to Sparky's Hotdog Stand. This is a place you can bring your pocket book and your spicey cravings to. For $5, you can get a loaded up chili cheese dog with extra jalepeno peppers and fresh diced onions, a side of spicey bbq kettle chips, an an iced cold can of soda. If you're a bit old school, load it up with mustard, relish, onions and kraut. But if you're a true mid-western dog fanatic, then a full on lip smacking Chicago dog please. Find a spot under a shaded tree, find a seat by the carribean steel drum music, or seclude yourself in your air conditioned car by the south pier and watch young men fish and old men kite. Sparky's means mid-day mid-work picnic and a happy dancing tongue. And oh yes, their dogs are plump and juicy and their bread is always fresh, in case you like it just plain.
It is important to note that Sparky's is a traditional hot dog stand as you would find in Chicago or New York, but with a few more options like ice cream cones and warm nachos. No brats served, particularly unfortunate if you've developed a penchant for the Sheboygan brat. Still, let's not cry for the undead. There is no shortage of brat frys in Sheboygan County but nothing else like Sparky's in this little town. I'm glad that even though we are in the brat-epicenter of the brat universe, the idea of a hot dog stand remains possible. Thank God for Sparky's.
After our $5 lunch, we headed a block north to the Victorian Chocolate shop for hand crafted artisan chocolates. I've learned several years ago that European style chocolates are very different from American style chocolates. European dark chocolate is nearly bittersweet compared to our more milked down version and their milk chocolates are more mild and buttery compared to our instensely sweet versions. You will either have a preference for one style or the other as a picky chocolate eater. Which is why I really love the Victorian Chocolate shop because I think they sort of hit the spot with their chocolates being less sweet than the store bought brands, a higher quality chocolate flavor and aroma, rich creaminess in both dark and milk chocolates and with quality ingredients going into their fillings. Particularly real fresh fruits and real candied fruit rinds. For the same quality of hand-made goodness elsewhere as in Chicago or Philadelphia, you could easily pay up to $50 for a box of dozen hand-made truffels. Here, it is less than half that cost. Which is what makes this place so accessible to anyone willing to give it a try.
Dutiful wives and mothers that we are, we bought one giant sized chocolate covered strawberry and a fresh chocolate covered rasberry for each family member and gobbled ours up on the carway back home. A considerable treat to a hardy lunch with great atmosphere, great conversation and a healthy pocket book. Sheboygan summer dining offers many promising options.
Gaelle and I had been in an unusual anticipatory mood since the weather hit 70 by end of June. We just wanted to be out, somewhere with a deck or patio, somewhere with a lot of sun, and somewhere very American-summery. It was time to introduce Gaelle to Sparky's Hotdog Stand. This is a place you can bring your pocket book and your spicey cravings to. For $5, you can get a loaded up chili cheese dog with extra jalepeno peppers and fresh diced onions, a side of spicey bbq kettle chips, an an iced cold can of soda. If you're a bit old school, load it up with mustard, relish, onions and kraut. But if you're a true mid-western dog fanatic, then a full on lip smacking Chicago dog please. Find a spot under a shaded tree, find a seat by the carribean steel drum music, or seclude yourself in your air conditioned car by the south pier and watch young men fish and old men kite. Sparky's means mid-day mid-work picnic and a happy dancing tongue. And oh yes, their dogs are plump and juicy and their bread is always fresh, in case you like it just plain.
It is important to note that Sparky's is a traditional hot dog stand as you would find in Chicago or New York, but with a few more options like ice cream cones and warm nachos. No brats served, particularly unfortunate if you've developed a penchant for the Sheboygan brat. Still, let's not cry for the undead. There is no shortage of brat frys in Sheboygan County but nothing else like Sparky's in this little town. I'm glad that even though we are in the brat-epicenter of the brat universe, the idea of a hot dog stand remains possible. Thank God for Sparky's.
After our $5 lunch, we headed a block north to the Victorian Chocolate shop for hand crafted artisan chocolates. I've learned several years ago that European style chocolates are very different from American style chocolates. European dark chocolate is nearly bittersweet compared to our more milked down version and their milk chocolates are more mild and buttery compared to our instensely sweet versions. You will either have a preference for one style or the other as a picky chocolate eater. Which is why I really love the Victorian Chocolate shop because I think they sort of hit the spot with their chocolates being less sweet than the store bought brands, a higher quality chocolate flavor and aroma, rich creaminess in both dark and milk chocolates and with quality ingredients going into their fillings. Particularly real fresh fruits and real candied fruit rinds. For the same quality of hand-made goodness elsewhere as in Chicago or Philadelphia, you could easily pay up to $50 for a box of dozen hand-made truffels. Here, it is less than half that cost. Which is what makes this place so accessible to anyone willing to give it a try.
Dutiful wives and mothers that we are, we bought one giant sized chocolate covered strawberry and a fresh chocolate covered rasberry for each family member and gobbled ours up on the carway back home. A considerable treat to a hardy lunch with great atmosphere, great conversation and a healthy pocket book. Sheboygan summer dining offers many promising options.
Good Bye Norma Jean
I smack husband's arm each time he has the urge to count the number of remaining days to this year's aweful short summer. Spring didn't arrive until June with the air cracking just above 60 every day that month. It's been a tough year all around for Sheboygan County. Still suffering the slow down in our local economy, everyone from top down has been patiently wading through difficult times day by day waiting for any small turn in luck. Which makes it so much harder when summer sells us short and luck is still on winter break somewhere in the south Carribean.
This month, Jumes on 8th Street closed it's doors to its devoted patrons after nearly 82 years of restauranteuring. An all American original 50's diner that defined 50's dining from decor, to food, to their dry-witted waitresses. This is the place that any self-respecting local or wanna-be local Sheboygan resident would be found enjoying weekend brunch with their children, spouse or by themselves on a workday morning. The food was straightforward unpretentious. The coffee was a good American brew. Not too strong but with good mild flavor. Perfect with cream and sugar. There was nothing about Jume's food that stood out as award winning. What stood out was comfort in its reliable simplicity and consistency. What stood out was the spot in the corner that you could call yours should you make it a routine to come in every morning. A humble slice of home-made pie every Friday evening after a tough work week. A walk across the street for a refill on your coffee around noontime. And the friendly waitresses with their dry wit and good humoured jabs...not like they ever watched an episode of Mel's Diner.
It had become my routine every other morning since openning my office across the street to stop by for my usual bacon-egg-cheese sandwich on a Sheboygan hard roll and a medium cup of coffee. The cook, easily mistakable for Tommy Lee Jones, would crack open a fresh egg over the greasy fry top, warm up a fresh baked roll, heat up several thick slices of crunchy tasty bacon and top it all off with a melting thick slice of real Wisconsin sharp cheddar. The waitress would serve me a cup of coffee to go but each time forgetting to hand me a spoon...the old retired man whom I'd gotten to know very well would hand me his spoon in turn and begin discussing the local coupon and sales section from that morning's paper. You wouldn't know how much you had fallen in love with Jumes and accepted her into your life until she was gone and you're left wandering the corners of 8th street searching for an adequate substitute. For $5, you could have the best egg-bacon-cheese sandwich and medium cup of hot coffee to last you through late lunch. For $10, you could have something similar at The Field of Fork, but with a much different take on American dining and a much different personality. After nearly a century of offering up good traditional American dining, we wish you the best of luck in the next chapter of your life.
This month, Jumes on 8th Street closed it's doors to its devoted patrons after nearly 82 years of restauranteuring. An all American original 50's diner that defined 50's dining from decor, to food, to their dry-witted waitresses. This is the place that any self-respecting local or wanna-be local Sheboygan resident would be found enjoying weekend brunch with their children, spouse or by themselves on a workday morning. The food was straightforward unpretentious. The coffee was a good American brew. Not too strong but with good mild flavor. Perfect with cream and sugar. There was nothing about Jume's food that stood out as award winning. What stood out was comfort in its reliable simplicity and consistency. What stood out was the spot in the corner that you could call yours should you make it a routine to come in every morning. A humble slice of home-made pie every Friday evening after a tough work week. A walk across the street for a refill on your coffee around noontime. And the friendly waitresses with their dry wit and good humoured jabs...not like they ever watched an episode of Mel's Diner.
It had become my routine every other morning since openning my office across the street to stop by for my usual bacon-egg-cheese sandwich on a Sheboygan hard roll and a medium cup of coffee. The cook, easily mistakable for Tommy Lee Jones, would crack open a fresh egg over the greasy fry top, warm up a fresh baked roll, heat up several thick slices of crunchy tasty bacon and top it all off with a melting thick slice of real Wisconsin sharp cheddar. The waitress would serve me a cup of coffee to go but each time forgetting to hand me a spoon...the old retired man whom I'd gotten to know very well would hand me his spoon in turn and begin discussing the local coupon and sales section from that morning's paper. You wouldn't know how much you had fallen in love with Jumes and accepted her into your life until she was gone and you're left wandering the corners of 8th street searching for an adequate substitute. For $5, you could have the best egg-bacon-cheese sandwich and medium cup of hot coffee to last you through late lunch. For $10, you could have something similar at The Field of Fork, but with a much different take on American dining and a much different personality. After nearly a century of offering up good traditional American dining, we wish you the best of luck in the next chapter of your life.
Saturday, May 7, 2011
Me Encanta Menudo
You wouldn't think it, but Sheboygan has some of the best Mexican dishes served up this side of the border. It's still a big mystery how it is possible that just only a day ago, I was served the best and most appetizing hot rich bowl of Menudo in my life at El Camino. This is not even a hyperbole because Menudo is such a simple dish. An otherwise bland dish composed of tripe, hominy, water, chile, salt and pepper...livened up with fresh lime, onion and cilantro garnishes. It's always been Mexican soulfood for me, tightly knotted in memories of long weekends working the La Mirada swap meet in California. In my days of childhood enslavement, menudo was always a good reason for my parents to let me loose on a lunch break to the catering truck stands where they served home made menudo. After a short lived obsession with Menudo, the boy band of the 80's, I rediscovered Menudo in a different light. The taste test begun between a food fight between catering trucks, which lead us to venture further into local restaurants...subconsciously feeding into my obsession with Mexican culture till I got a first bite of my ex-boyfriend's mom's Menudo to which I am still unable to replicate. Still, in one variation or another (more salt, less salt, more fat, less fat, longer boil, shorter boil, etc.), the ingredients seemed to remain hardfastly traditional and unchanged.
Then there is El Camino's version of serious smack down Menudo, and these people mean serious business here. The soup arrives, in a deep smokey rich peppery redness generously filled with tender loving tripe. Gaelle takes a first dip of her spoon into the broth and already we both see that this was not any water based broth. It coated her spoon thickly even after leaving the bowl and into her virgin Menudo mouth. Wow, according to Gaelle, was the taste of Sheboygan County's version of Menudo. What makes this version so special and loving is the fact that the chef at El Camino, Momma Camino, must have cooked 50 pounds of beef bones with thick tendons for ten days because we found melt in your mouth fist sized tendons, boiled down knuckles among everything else in the bowl. We know that Momma Camino loves us dearly because there was not a centimeter thick layer of grease one would expect from this level of boiled down stock. The cook took painful care to remove excess fat from this stock so that what would remain would simply be soup, soup and soup. It was a glorious spicey beef brew and perhaps an incomparable way of making an otherwise straight forward dish.
This journey into Sheboygan's underground food culture, not so underground since El Camino's magnificant renovation, has already turned me upside down in my prior prejudgments about dull Midwestern cuisine. Two taste tests into Gaelle and my adventure and I'm starting to see what a greater anomoly Sheboygan may in fact be. Who would have thought that the country's best Italian, Mexican, British and American cuisines could be found deep in the belly button of the United States?
Then there is El Camino's version of serious smack down Menudo, and these people mean serious business here. The soup arrives, in a deep smokey rich peppery redness generously filled with tender loving tripe. Gaelle takes a first dip of her spoon into the broth and already we both see that this was not any water based broth. It coated her spoon thickly even after leaving the bowl and into her virgin Menudo mouth. Wow, according to Gaelle, was the taste of Sheboygan County's version of Menudo. What makes this version so special and loving is the fact that the chef at El Camino, Momma Camino, must have cooked 50 pounds of beef bones with thick tendons for ten days because we found melt in your mouth fist sized tendons, boiled down knuckles among everything else in the bowl. We know that Momma Camino loves us dearly because there was not a centimeter thick layer of grease one would expect from this level of boiled down stock. The cook took painful care to remove excess fat from this stock so that what would remain would simply be soup, soup and soup. It was a glorious spicey beef brew and perhaps an incomparable way of making an otherwise straight forward dish.
This journey into Sheboygan's underground food culture, not so underground since El Camino's magnificant renovation, has already turned me upside down in my prior prejudgments about dull Midwestern cuisine. Two taste tests into Gaelle and my adventure and I'm starting to see what a greater anomoly Sheboygan may in fact be. Who would have thought that the country's best Italian, Mexican, British and American cuisines could be found deep in the belly button of the United States?
Sunday, April 17, 2011
Katana Sushi Bar
Where: Katana Sushi Bar
920 Michigan Avenue
Sheboygan
Previously Caffé Kita
When: Lunchtime, Friday April 15, 2011
920 Michigan Avenue
Sheboygan
Previously Caffé Kita
When: Lunchtime, Friday April 15, 2011
Sushi has arrived in town!!! We are talking about a real sushi restaurant solely dedicated to sushi. I have to admit I had low expectations just to avoid disappointment.
For a sushi fix option A was to drive to Milwaukee hitting Izumi 's or option B to stop by Pick& Save on 25th st for "supermarket sushis". Katana is now offering the missing option: Decent sushi rolls at a reasonable price a few blocks away from home. For sure there's a market for it. The sushi fridge at Pick & Save gets replenished fresh every morning at full capacity and is pretty much empty at the end of the day.
Pushing the door to to Katana was going back to Caffe Kita, a place I missed for its fresh soup and sandwiches. Nothing has changed since. Same décor, same furniture, same layout, did they change the color of the walls? No I don't think so. I always enjoyed the warm and buzzing atmosphere of Caffé Kita. But today the ambiance was cold and dull. The walls were naked and the artificial flowers on the tables seemed waiting for a breath of fresh air. While waiting for my partner in lunch aka the Chinese Stomach, the not-so-good details started to show up: tables not properly cleaned, multitude of footprints and food crumbs on the floor. Clearly nobody was on mopping duty yesterday evening at the end of the night shift. A lack of basic restaurant management and standards? Service didn't shine. It took 10 minutes to get a glass of water. At least our shy waitress had a friendly smile on her face.
Most important food was commendable. The Lunch Special was a hit: a miso soup and 2 rolls of your choice, a total of 12 pieces for $10. Miso soup had a strong flavorful body although a tad too salty. I got a taste of California rolls made with real crab, salmon rolls and spicy tuna rolls. The fish tasted fresh, the rolls were well-executed although slightly bland. Something was missing, was it the lack of vinegar and salt in the rice?
The best of all was Mandy's Tempura Shrimp roll: super crispy and seasoned perfectly. This one was the winner.
I'll be back for more. It's all I want: affordable fresh tasting sushis. I sincerely hope Katana will stay around and sharpen its edge.
For more information about location, chef and menu check this article from the Sheboygan Press.
Like Water for Sushi Lovers
Five and half years ago when I first arrived in Sheboygan, the town had just upgraded from a Walmart to a Target. My first sight of Wisconsin was a long white highway cutting through endless fields of white farm land. Images from the movie Fargo and long aisles of creamed salad buffets came to mind. It felt like the town had slept too long, uninspired from lack of sunlight. Shopping at the north side Pick and Save one morning, I accidentally stumbled upon Sheboygan's culinary palate. "Excuse me, but can you tell me where your smoked salmon is located?" Confused, the boy directed me to the canned meat aisle. "You mean you don't carry smoked salmon!!!!" "We usually keep the smoked meat in the canned aisle ma'am." "You mean you've never heard of gravlax, lox....cold smoked salmon?" "The only smoked meat we have are canned ma'am." A big question entered my mind just then, but I could not articulate the breadth of this question.
This past week, a sushi restaurant openned in Sheboygan County. Not just any sushi restaurant, but Sheboygan's first sushi restaurant in its entire history. Not a gourmet restaurant by any stretch. But the first sign of modern life, a shift in time and space...baring witness to a child taking her first step from the 1980's to the 1990's. The event is no less significant here as it had been twenty years ago when sushi begin creeping into main stream dining in Southern California. Some have said that it's not a city until you have a Best Buy. Over the past five years, Sheboygan has inherited a Boston Store, several notable coffee shops, a modern local music venue, an alternative radio station, and a Best Buy. It was just a matter of time that this would happen. We just never thought that it would.
In a town where half the population prefer a taco supreme over authentic carne asada, where you're likely to meet a local who's managed to avoid the taste of shrimp their entire life unless by accident, a decent lunch crowd gather at Katana Sushi Bar and Restaurant for a bite to eat. There was an initial nervous vibe. The waitress appeared at our table embarrassingly, like a sushi virgin baring herself for the first time, wondering whether the observer would like what they see. We all felt a little exposed. Gaelle and I immediate launched into it, debating the quality of management and service. Is it appropriate to do a full sweep during mid-lunch or should we expect and accept routine spot cleaning after every diner? How long is too long to be served a glass of water? What is an acceptable minimum number of servers at mid-lunch? How much training has the staff had in customer service? I wanted to reserve judgment on the quality of service if the quality of my meal satisfied my stomach. This could be the difference between Gaelle and I. After all, it was her ancestors, the French, who invented Michelin style dining, still perserving the standard and heart of food culture. My culinary ancestors on the other hand, are more reputed for chaotic table service, questionable sanitary conditions, and tasty noodle bowls. I'm use to the grime. It's my stomach that requires satisfaction.
The lunch menu was small but sufficiently diverse to satisfy the particular appetites of most diners. There were a few curious specials that caught my attention, particularly the Korean BBQ beef stew and the fried hot dog dish (I forget the name). Wow, what exactly are we really looking at here? A sign of serious authenticity peeking through the spinach miso soup?
Yet the owner throws us a few softballs. Spinach rather than seaweed in the miso soup. Truth is, the spinach didn't take away from the flavor at all or even the expected texure. Seaweed is typically bland anyway. But, I couldn't help feeling like I was being treated to a lower denominator. God forbid they start serving bratwurst on a hot dog bun. I could still have been able to sit through the sting of a slight insult with the complementary flavors of the spinach and the broth, except that the soup was too salty. Note to self, Mr. Chef, if the miso soup becomes too dark to see the food through the broth, you've added too much soy sauce. Stop, drop and start over.
The California roll was admittedly good. The flavor of each component shined through and came together well. The roll was fat and tight, well portioned, visually appealing with real crab meat that did not taste bland or from a can. The tempura shrimp roll was surprisingly better than I'd expected also. The tempura batter was well seasoned and light, remaining fresh and crunchy throughout my hour and half meal, holding together with each dip. And well, they dared to leave the tail on. The dish came with a shriracha-mayo dipping sauce that really didn't need to be there because it didn't add to the quality or flavor of the roll. The tempura shrimp was good enough to hold up on its own lightly dipped in soysauce. Overall, the sushi was delicious, somewhere between Wholefoods' to go and Izumi's in terms of freshness and flavor. Satisfying enough to cause a slight lunch coma back at the office.
At the end of it, Gaelle and I were suprisingly pleased and happy with our meal. The price was good, the portion was good, the quality was good...two out-of-towners agree. Like water for sushi lovers, Sheboygan is beginning to feel more like home now that I've found something that connects directly to my heart. This week, we were one of first few witnesses to the evolution of a wheatfield. A plateau of grass that has dominated for generations cannot stop destiny and burried seeds of new inspiration. We want to know what else is burried deep within Sheboygan's culinary underground.
This past week, a sushi restaurant openned in Sheboygan County. Not just any sushi restaurant, but Sheboygan's first sushi restaurant in its entire history. Not a gourmet restaurant by any stretch. But the first sign of modern life, a shift in time and space...baring witness to a child taking her first step from the 1980's to the 1990's. The event is no less significant here as it had been twenty years ago when sushi begin creeping into main stream dining in Southern California. Some have said that it's not a city until you have a Best Buy. Over the past five years, Sheboygan has inherited a Boston Store, several notable coffee shops, a modern local music venue, an alternative radio station, and a Best Buy. It was just a matter of time that this would happen. We just never thought that it would.
In a town where half the population prefer a taco supreme over authentic carne asada, where you're likely to meet a local who's managed to avoid the taste of shrimp their entire life unless by accident, a decent lunch crowd gather at Katana Sushi Bar and Restaurant for a bite to eat. There was an initial nervous vibe. The waitress appeared at our table embarrassingly, like a sushi virgin baring herself for the first time, wondering whether the observer would like what they see. We all felt a little exposed. Gaelle and I immediate launched into it, debating the quality of management and service. Is it appropriate to do a full sweep during mid-lunch or should we expect and accept routine spot cleaning after every diner? How long is too long to be served a glass of water? What is an acceptable minimum number of servers at mid-lunch? How much training has the staff had in customer service? I wanted to reserve judgment on the quality of service if the quality of my meal satisfied my stomach. This could be the difference between Gaelle and I. After all, it was her ancestors, the French, who invented Michelin style dining, still perserving the standard and heart of food culture. My culinary ancestors on the other hand, are more reputed for chaotic table service, questionable sanitary conditions, and tasty noodle bowls. I'm use to the grime. It's my stomach that requires satisfaction.
The lunch menu was small but sufficiently diverse to satisfy the particular appetites of most diners. There were a few curious specials that caught my attention, particularly the Korean BBQ beef stew and the fried hot dog dish (I forget the name). Wow, what exactly are we really looking at here? A sign of serious authenticity peeking through the spinach miso soup?
Yet the owner throws us a few softballs. Spinach rather than seaweed in the miso soup. Truth is, the spinach didn't take away from the flavor at all or even the expected texure. Seaweed is typically bland anyway. But, I couldn't help feeling like I was being treated to a lower denominator. God forbid they start serving bratwurst on a hot dog bun. I could still have been able to sit through the sting of a slight insult with the complementary flavors of the spinach and the broth, except that the soup was too salty. Note to self, Mr. Chef, if the miso soup becomes too dark to see the food through the broth, you've added too much soy sauce. Stop, drop and start over.
The California roll was admittedly good. The flavor of each component shined through and came together well. The roll was fat and tight, well portioned, visually appealing with real crab meat that did not taste bland or from a can. The tempura shrimp roll was surprisingly better than I'd expected also. The tempura batter was well seasoned and light, remaining fresh and crunchy throughout my hour and half meal, holding together with each dip. And well, they dared to leave the tail on. The dish came with a shriracha-mayo dipping sauce that really didn't need to be there because it didn't add to the quality or flavor of the roll. The tempura shrimp was good enough to hold up on its own lightly dipped in soysauce. Overall, the sushi was delicious, somewhere between Wholefoods' to go and Izumi's in terms of freshness and flavor. Satisfying enough to cause a slight lunch coma back at the office.
At the end of it, Gaelle and I were suprisingly pleased and happy with our meal. The price was good, the portion was good, the quality was good...two out-of-towners agree. Like water for sushi lovers, Sheboygan is beginning to feel more like home now that I've found something that connects directly to my heart. This week, we were one of first few witnesses to the evolution of a wheatfield. A plateau of grass that has dominated for generations cannot stop destiny and burried seeds of new inspiration. We want to know what else is burried deep within Sheboygan's culinary underground.
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